I’m often asked when is the best time to start naturopathic medicines. Should you start before, during, or after traditional therapies??
While starting therapy at the time of diagnosis is ideal (as the natural medicines can reduce side effects from and increase effectiveness of traditional cancer therapies,) the MOST important thing is to start natural therapies sometime! The goal is to enhance the immune system’s fighting abilities to keep the cancer in remission as long as possible and to make the pet feel better, giving it a high quality of life.
The second MOST important thing is to work with a holistic veterinarian to make sure you are using the correct proven therapies at the dosage that is best for your pet, and to pick natural supplements that don’t interact negatively with other therapies. In our practice we use only proven natural medicines and are guided by frequent blood testing, including our cancer/inflammatory profile. Your pet’s life is too important to guess and go it alone….and please don’t buy something on the internet just because a testimonial swears the product cures cancer..a definite no-no.
Breast Choices for the Best Chances: Your Breasts, Your Life, and How YOU Can Win The Battle!
With Easter upon us, I wanted to take a moment to remind all of you about the dangers of one of my favorite plants, the lily.
Most pet owners are unaware that ingestion of any part of a lily can be fatal for cats. This is of particular concern given the popularity of lilies in bouquets and gardens. Lilies in the “true lily” and daylily families such as Easter lilies, stargazer lilies, tiger lilies, Asiatic lilies, and Oriental lilies are highly toxic to cats. Ingestion of just one petal, leaf, or even the pollen, can cause kidney failure in less than three days.
The most dangerous lilies for cats are those in the genus Lilium (the “true lilies”) and Hemerocallis (daylilies). Common examples include the Easter lily (L. longiflorum), stargazer lily (L. orientalis), tiger lily (L. tigrinum or L. lancifolium), Asiatic hybrid lily (many varieties of Lilium spp.), wood lily (L. philadelphicum), and daylily (Hemerocallis spp.). The toxin, which only effects cats, has not been identified, but exposure to any part of the plant, including leaves, flowers, pollen, or even the water from the vase may result in acute kidney and rarely, pancreatitis. Lily poisoning is a true medical emergencie requiring immediate veterinary care. Early decontamination, aggressive intravenous fluid therapy, renal function tests, and supportive care greatly improve the cat’s prognosis. A delay of treatment of more than 18 hours after ingestion generally results in irreversible kidney failure. Due to the high risk of fatality, the Pet Poison Hotline recommends these flowers never be brought into homes with cats.
If a cat consumes any part of a lily plant, the pet owner should bring the cat and the plant to a veterinarian as soon as possible.Treatment for lily poisoning starts at around $1000 but easily escalates depending upon the degree of kidney failure and the pet’s response or lack of response. The best approach-while we love lillies DON’T bring them into a house of cats!
Every veterinarian knows the research:pets do not and should not receive regular immunizations, but instead immunization recommendations must be based upon knowledge of the vaccine’s immunity, pet’s immunity, and individual characteristics of the pet’s lifestyle. The research confirms what holistic doctors have known for many years-most vaccines are so effective that administering them only a few times in a pet’s life is adequate to produce long-lasting immunity. Yet conventional vets still LOVE to give vaccines every 6 months to 3 years. Why?? I believe it’s simply to make money and have an excuse to “get the pet to come in for a visit.”
While it’s important to examine pets regularly, every 6-12 months depending upon the pet’s age, breed, and health issues, simply replacing regular immunization with inexpensive blood testing for vaccine titers (antibody levels) will “get pets to come in” and is much safer than over-vaccinating our patients.
Following minimal vaccinations for puppies and kittens (we do about 1/3 of the vaccines the typical conventional doctor does for puppies and kittens,) we do a mini-booster 1 year later and then do titer testing annually for the rest of the pet’s life. IF the titers show the need for immunization we MAY immunize the pet depending again upon its own unique circumstances. When applicable immune support and detoxification can be given whenever vaccines are needed in order to try to minimize harmful effects from the vaccines and boost the pet’s immune response to the vaccines.
By avoiding vaccines most of our patients live several years longer than the typical patient which receives numerous, unnecessary immunizations. They tend to be healthier and have fewer immune problems, including cancer. Following this logical and proven strategy is a winner for our practice and most importantly for our special patients who look to us for guidance for a long, healthy life!
I’m very fortunate that due to our holistic approach to wellness, the average age of our patients is several years higher than seen in conventional practices. Most of our larger breeds of dogs typically live 14-16 years (average life expectancy for most practices is 10-12) and for smaller dogs and cats 16-20+ years (in most practices the average smaller pet is lucky to live 14-15 years.)
Sooner or later though, we all must pass and so must our pets. However, one of my goals for holistic care is to offer “hope for the hopeless.” This means that we never give up until we give the pet every chance to recover from illness.
I regularly treat pets deemed “hopeless” by conventional medicine, only to have these special pets recover, get cured, and live normal lives with aggressive holistic care.
In some cases, though, no matter what is tried the pet’s body tells us that a cure is not to be. In these cases hospice care is best. This involves keeping the pet comfortable with a combination of conventional medicines (usually pain relief if needed,) and natural therapies to support a feeling of euphoria and peace, as well as detoxification. This may involve giving medications in the hospital as well as at home, until we see that the therapies are no longer keeping the pet happy and comfortable.
I’m often asked how to know when it’s the right time for euthanasia. Prior to getting accepted into veterinary school in 1983 I published my first article for a major veterinary journal on this topic. As I stated then, I feel euthanasia is acceptable and desired when 2 things happen:you are no longer able to enjoy your pet in his current condition and he is no longer able to enjoy you due to his current condition. IF recovery is unlikely despite all we’ve tried, than the pet is basically saying to us…”Hey you tried everything. I gave it all I had but I can’t fight anymore. It’s time for both of us to say Good Bye. Thanks for loving me and caring for me but it’s time to let go.”
While never easy, euthanasia, involving a shot of a quick overdose of anesthetic, is the final gift we can give our pets who have given so much to us. I’ve had to euthanize my own special pets Rita and Dysa (both within the last 2 years,) so I know your pain and grief. However, I knew I was being selfless in letting them go, and I know they were grateful for this final gift as I held them while they quickly and painlessly passed.
I’m often asked for guidelines on treating specific types of cancer…Since each case is unique and different, only general suggestions can be made.
For cases with clean margins on the pathology report following surgery to remove the tumor, this is an easy call…aggressive supplements, no chemo or radiation.
For tumors with dirty margins (cancer cells are left behind following surgery,) this is a tougher call and without seeing the path report I can’t comment specifically…but chemo (+/-Palladia,) and /or local radiation can be helpful…PLUS tons of supplements and autosanguis detox..I follow these cases with exams and blood testing (esp for TK, CRP, and vitamin D) every 3 months…..this protocol usually gives outstanding results and often complete “cures.”
I’m happy to report that my best-selling shampoo, Dr. Shawn’s Itch Relief Shampoo,has been picked as the editor’s favorite by Nancy Kerns, editor of Whole Dog Journal. Here is what she said in a recent issue.
I don’t wash my dogs that often, perhaps once a month. So I want a shampoo that will make Otto’s coat clean, soft, and smelling good, without drying his skin (and making him itch) or conditioning Tito’s fur to the point of greasiness. Also, I expect my dogs to continue to look and smell clean for at least a few weeks after their baths. Maybe that’s asking too much– because a lot of the dog shampoos I’ve tried fail at some important part of my wish list. For example, one product cleans them well, but leaves their coats full of static electricity, so that their loose hair flies around and magnetically sticks to everything. Another one is difficult to rinse out completely, giving my dogs an oily look and feel after just a few days.
My quest for a superior dog shampoo leads me to try each and every shampoo that comes into my office unsolicited and every new natural product I see in pet supply stores. But in recent months, I’ve found myself reaching for the same bottle again and again; my quest may have ended with this product, which was formulated by holistic veterinarian Shawn Messonier. It doesn’t overlather, yet gets the dogs really clean, and because it’s made with organic coconut oil, it’s gentle on Otto’s often-irritated skin (he suffers from environmental allergies in the spring and fall). The product contains lemongrass and lavender, so it smells divine, and it contains no artificial colors or fragrances, or sulfates.
Demodectic mange is a common disease of puppies and a rare disease of older dogs. Due to a defective immune response the mange mites, which normally live in small numbers in the hair follicles, reproduce and damage the hair follicles and skin, causing the disease we call mange.
Diagnosis is usually easy and based upon finding the mites (see photo) in a skin scraping.
While conventional treatment may be needed, all cases require immune support to help the body’s immune system kill the mites and heal the skin.
When conventional medications are used for mange treatment, liver support is also needed to reduce toxicity of the therapies.
In my practice, most cases respond well to natural therapies and only rarely are conventional medications needed for cure. Since most of the affected pets are puppies or young dogs, these pets must NOT receive vaccines during their treatment (usually vaccines are not needed for most pets anyway based upon titer testing.)
Part of the holiday festivities often includes purchasing seasonal plants including holly, mistletoe, and poinsettias. I’m often asked if it’s safe to include these in a house shared with 4 legged family members.
Though they have a bad rap, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) plants are only mildly toxic to cats and dogs. According to the Pet Poison Hotline, the milky white sap found in poinsettias contains chemicals called diterpenoid euphorbol esters and saponin-like detergents.
Mild signs of vomiting, drooling, or rarely, diarrhea may be seen if the plants are chewed. If the milky sap is exposed to skin, irritation (including redness, swelling, and itchiness) may develop. Rarely, eye exposure can result in a mild conjunctivitis. Signs are easily treated by your veterinarian and rarely require intensive care.
While poinsettias are commonly “hyped” as poisonous plants, they rarely are, but more worrisome are holiday bouquets containing lilies, holly or mistletoe. Lilies can result in severe acute kidney failure in cats. Holly berries and mistletoe ( American mistletoe is less toxic than the European varieties.)
Use common sense and minimize the chance of your pet contacting one of these popular Christmas plants so all can have a safe and happy holiday!